When the Shadows Fall. The Powerful Call of Slippery Ann’s Elk
THE ANNUAL ELK RUT AT SLIPPERY ANN WILDLIFE VIEWING AREA IS ONE OF NATURE’S GREATEST SHOWS PROMISES WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER ©SCOTT STONE
Wildlife Photographer Scott Stone and Friend
By Scott Stone
If early one morning after breakfast, you made the trek north (about 120 miles) from Billings or east (about 140 miles) from Great Falls, Montana you’d end up, late that morning, at the famed Slippery Ann Wildlife Viewing Area just in time to find...no elk?
The Time of Day is Critical
With wildlife, time-of-day is critical to the best viewing and the elk at Slippery Ann are no exception. Early morning just before sun-up and especially the last few hours of evening light is when the elk take center stage. To do this place justice you need to spend a few days here to soak in the magic.
WATCHING THE SUNRISE AT THE SLIPPERY ANN ELK VIEWING AREA AT CHARLES M. RUSSELL NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE. IMAGE: ©SCOTT STONE
✔︎Trip Tip
When: September - October
Where: Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge, Montana
How: Billings / Logan Airport. Drive to Lewistown, Montana
Who: Nature lovers and photographers.
COVID-19: MONTANA UPDATE
Welcome to One of the West’s Greatest Wildlife Spectacles
The bugling and rutting bull elk at Slippery Ann is, hands down, one of the West's greatest spectacles. Though not commercialized, this place and this show are famous to the area. You may see as few as a dozen (local) pick-up trucks or as many as several hundred during the peak. So arriving early in the afternoon is the key to getting the best seat in the house.
Then finally, the sun, sitting high over the flat expanse of sweet sage mixed with golden crested wheatgrass lessens its grip, and the shadows in the willows and towering cottonwoods deepen. You'll feel the temperature start to fall and - suddenly, there it is!
THE SOUND OF THE BULL ELK’S BUGLING RINGS OUT FROM THE SHADOWS. IMAGE: ©SCOTT STONE
A Blast of Sound From the Shadows
Like a runaway freight train, the first bugle rings out from the shadows and soon another and another. The sound of an elk bugling will raise the hair on your arms and bring a mile-wide smile to your face. It is without compare in the animal kingdom – or any kingdom. That high-pitched dominating growl will grab all your attention...and your soul.
Beginning late August through to early October, the elk file in, one-by-one, day-by-day, several hundred cows and calves with dozens to over 100 bulls converge at this spot.
THE MALES BUGLE (POSTURE, WRESTLE ANTLERS, ETC) TO GATHER A HAREM. LOOKS LIKE THIS GUY IS MAKING PROGRESS. IMAGE: ©SCOTT STONE
Each year well over a dozen big bulls capture the West's spirit with their sparring, posturing, locking up antlers, and challenging each other for breeding rights. The action happens from several hundred yards away as they leave the willows to close-up right in your face as the light fades, and they fill the clearing. The sound of cow and calf mews, bull growls, and full-on screams fill the brisk Montana air and your senses.
AS THE SUN FADES, ELK MOVE AWAY FROM THE TREE LINE, CLOSER TO THE VIEWERS. IMAGE: ©SCOTT STONE
Prepare to Capture the Action
A set of 10x40-60 binoculars will do the trick for the casual viewer, but a spotting scope, if you have one available, makes the experience that much better.
Wildlife photographers like myself who spend every fall at Slippery Ann, use lenses ranging from a 70-200mm out to a 600mm with a 1.4 teleconverter to get the shots of the elk first leaving their shaded afternoon beds and entering the grass flat to graze.
As the light fades, the elk move further from the tree line to feed closer to the road and the area where parking is allowed. Right before full darkness, they are mere yards away from where you watch, so using the smaller lenses is fine.
THE SOUND OF BUGLING ELK IS SOMETHING YOU WILL NEVER FORGET. EVEN THE LOCALS ARE NOT IMMUNE TO THE MAGIC. IMAGE: ©SCOTT STONE
For many visitors getting to Slippery Ann will be a couple-hour drive. There are camping spots, but you're a good hour from the nearest hotel (in Lewistown). There's no cell service here, and the nearest gas station is a solid half-hour and may not have much, but you'll always get a smile.
Unlike the heavy timber of much of the West, Montana's unique landscape, under its vast "Big Sky," combined with the remote solitude of the Charles M Russel National Wildlife Refuge, create a haven in the middle of nowhere. And it provides nature's coolest possible experiences when a world-class bull elk strolls right passed you... when the shadows fall.
THERE IS MAGIC IN THE SUNSET ITSELF AT SLIPPERY ANN ELK VIEWING AREA IN THE CHARLES M. RUSSELL NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE. IMAGE: ©SCOTT STONE
Visiting Slippery Ann? Make Your Base at Lewistown
✍︎ From the editor: The first story we did on Slippery Ann suggested great places to visit north of the Refuge. This time we stay closer to the viewing area, heading about an hour west, to the town of Lewistown, Montana.
That these are family-owned businesses is not surprising, but over and over, I found that the philosophy of giving back, paying forward, and helping neighbors is just part of the day out here, like the sun coming up or the elk bugling…
Note from Scott: Renting a car? Do yourself a favor, make sure it has 4-wheel drive.
WELCOME TO LEWISTOWN, THE HEART OF MONTANA AND ONLY A SHORT DISTANCE TO SLIPPERY ANNE. IMAGE: THANKS TO THE ©COMMUNITY OF LEWISTOWN.
Where to Stay in Lewistown, Montana
The Calvert Hotel
Right on the main street in the center of town. Expect a warm welcome at The Calvert Hotel, as well as clean, well-appointed rooms, bathrooms and comfortable beds with luscious sheets (my favorite at the end of a day of hiking or wildlife watching.)
This small, family-owned boutique hotel is like visiting an old friend. But book ahead, they only have 28 rooms! The Calvert's history goes back to 1917 when it was built as a dormitory for rancher's kids to stay during the school week. In 1929 it became a hotel and ever since has been a beacon of hospitality.
Before you head out for elk or birdwatching, head downstairs for the Calvert’s complimentary breakfast, they are ready for you by 6:30AM!. Due to COVID, it’s now Grab-in-Go, perfect for enjoying on an early morning hike – or while watching the elk enjoy theirs. In-room coffee and WIFI are complimentary – but we suggest you relax and unplug.
This is the Calvert’s COVID-19 statement. We are happy to announce that the CALVERT HOTEL IS OPEN and taking reservations! ... And, while the Calvert is already known for having immaculately clean rooms, guests can also be assured that our staff follows CDC guidelines for hospitality, as well as social distancing parameters.
Kelly Anne also mentioned that they are spacing guests 24-hours apart when possible.
The Pheasant Tales B&B and the The Bear’s Den Guest House
Bringing the whole family or a group (up to 8?) Try The Pheasant Tales Bed and Bistro owned by Chris and Rick Taylor and situated just outside of town, this property is nestled in the pines and wildflowers and all that live among them. Pheasant Tales has 3 cozy rooms with baths, or rent the Bear’s Guest house for up to 8 adults. Take in the view from the fabulous wrap around porch. Each of 4 rooms has a bath and there is a full kitchen. Chris is a real chef so she assumed that you would like all new top appliances, too.
There is a 2-night stay minimum at the Guest House and your dog is welcome but not your credit card. Contact us
Campgrounds:
The Upper Slippery Ann Camping Area is in a prime spot overlooking the river, but it’s best overnight for camper-vehicles and motor homes as it has no toilet facilities or utilities for campers.
Scott made sure that we underscored The James Kipp Campground, too. Right on Rt.191 and only 6 miles from Slippery Ann. This is a great place to immerse in nature. We shared this great spot here.
Things To Do Near Lewistown
Bird and Wildlife Watching:
As you'd expect in this magnificent country, there are numerous hiking trails and excellent birding in the area too. Among the most recommended by the locals are:
The American Prairie Reserve: A mosaic of private and public lands brought together forming the largest preserved grasslands ecosystem in the lower 48 states.
It is difficult to name just a few places - Central Montana is filled with wildlife and birds. Take a look here for more extensive list for birding and wildlife viewing, or hiking and plan enough time to enjoy them.
There are things in the world that only this part of Montana can offer, the following are two.
The McClelland-Stafford Ferry
If your rental is 4-wheel drive, and if the weather is dry, the McClelland-Stafford Ferry is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The road is clay, steep at times and full of switchbacks, but the country is magnificent, and the gentle, peaceful float across the river, is well worth the effort. Joe, from Enjoy Lewistown , says head out from Winifred 17 miles (27km) on D7. Once you cross the river just enjoy, you are 100 miles (161km) away from the next town (or gas) but in the heart of a place filled with wildlife (pronghorn, mule deer etc.) and birds. Start early, pack some snacks, and bring your camera and binoculars.
The Montana Dinner Train (The Charlie Russell Chew Choo):
Even locals say the Montana Dinner Train is a "don't-miss." This 4-hour ride through Big Sky country is served up with a hearty steak or fish dinner (beer, wine, or other available). If you’d prefer a delicious vegetarian meal, just let them know when you get your ticket.
The schedule is limited to certain Fridays and Saturdays during the season. Social distance requirements make getting tickets more challenging than usual – but if you can score a reservation, you will not be sorry. Book way in advance!
And speaking of social distancing, train robbers will not be the only ones wearing masks, thanks to the gracious handiwork of Sew-Pieceful Did I mention train robbers? Well, this is the 'wild" west.
On the road to Slippery Ann:
Stop at the Bohemian Corner Café on Rt 191 in Roy (population 140) midway between Lewistown and Slippery Ann. Fill up the tank, grab a coffee, second breakfast or first lunch, and stick around a bit. The Bohemian Cafe is a local institution.
A stone's throw from the Bohemian Cafe, and one of Scott’s favorite places for a steak, a brew, and a catch-up on the local news, is The American Legion Bar and Grill. The American Legion, chartered by Congress in 1919 as gathering places for service veterans and their families. Every town and city had at least one. They were and still are in many places a social hub of small (and not-so-small) town American life. The Legions are known for community service and camaraderie. Stop in, say hello.
Where to Eat in Lewistown
THE CENTRAL FEED GRILLING COMPANY IN DOWNTOWN LEWISTOWN. IMAGE: CENTRAL FEED GRILLING FACEBOOK
If you like a good steak Montana is where to get it. Yet, while Montana may not be a hotbed of veganism, salads, veggies, as well as good fish, are available. Are you glutton sensitive? Speak up or contact us and we will reach out before you arrive. There are plenty of friendly folks who want to help you have a meal you'll enjoy. Just ask.
Central Feed Grilling Co Dinner steaks, burgers, and on-site brewed beer are the favorites here. Try one of their specialty brews, a rich porter made with locally roasted Rising Trout Coffee or a light, refreshing lager made with fresh-picked local chokecherries and local honey. Meatless? Ask for a veggie option.
Brooks Market Breakfast and Lunch: Try the flatbread pizza, a salad, or enjoy a fresh wrap. Veggie options available.
El Rancho Alegre Fresh Mexican specialties including veggie options.
*Scott’s favorite spots for a bite, a beer, and conversation:
✍︎ Editor’s Note: Scott has a lot of favorites, if you are not seeing a specific place here is it due to the editor and not to Scott, who would have had us make room for 25 favorite places!!
Doc's Casino Sports Bar and Grill: Try the deep-fried jalapeno pickles!
Little Big Men Pizza (LBM) Another family-owned, pizzeria specializing in super-fresh ingredients, unusual combinations. Read their
The China Garden has meatless and tofu options
I am ready to head to Montana. How about you? Contact us for your next trip to visit Slippery Anne’s Elk or to enjoy any of Montana’s fabulous wildlife and birding hotspots.
Thanks to Scott Stone for re-introducing us to the magic of Slippery Ann and his home, Lewistown, Montana
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