Experiencing Alaska’s Famous Brown Bears, The Katmai Effect

The coastal brown (grizzly) bears of the Alaskan peninsula are the largest in the world, up to 5Ft/151cm on all fours and 10Ft/305cm when standing. But they countenance tourists who respectfully visit. Image: ©Scott Stone

Wildlife photographer and brown bear specialist, Scott Stone — Wildlife photographer and brown bear specialist, **Scott Stone**

✔︎ Trip Tips
Where: Kodiak Island and Katmai Ntl. Park, Alaska
What: Kodiak Bear
When: June - Sept.
How: Pro. guided bear viewing and photography. Stay on Kodiak Island, float plane to KNP.
Bear Safety from ADF&G
Contact us for more information

The night is deep. But, your mind races with anticipation.

Sleep evades.

You've made it to Alaska's world-famous Kodiak Island; its salt air and pervasive sense of adventure already have you excited. Tomorrow, a floatplane will take you to Katmai National Park and its world-famous coastal brown bears. In just hours, you will be walking with the gentle giants of the goose tongue meadows of Hallo Bay.

Morning finally arrives.

Several of Alaska's iconic bush planes greet you at the Trident Basin Seaplane Base – the Beavers (!)- docked and ready to take on anything this part of the world can deliver. These planes are the tanks of the Alaskan frontier; they built this state and still own its endless skies.

Kodiak Island and Katmai National Park, Southwest Alaska

Katmai National Park. Home of the largest grizzlies on earth

It's here where you meet me, your guide, and our staff, who will walk you through the safety guidelines for your epic bear viewing adventure. Soon we are buckled into our Dehavilland Beaver Float Plane, its radial engine thunders to life, and we lift off for the experience of a lifetime.

Your Adventure Begins in the Air

The Dehavilland Beaver Float Plan, with their equally amazing pilots, are famous for taking on what Alaska can give out. Image: ©Scott Stone

Flying with the best pilots in the world, our 50-minute flight will take us above many of Kodiak Island's amazing bays, then over Raspberry island before we head out across the Shelikof Strait. Please keep your eyes trained on the ground and water below; on many of these flights, we have seen Kodiak brown bears, Sitka black-tailed deer, mountain goats, and then humpback, orca (killer whales) and even fin whales. In the summer months, when fishing permits are active, you may also see examples of "set net" or purse seine" fishing in action.

But most importantly, now, during our flight, I will take you through the life of a coastal brown bear and an overview of the park's history. By the time we land, you will be bear-savvy!

Your Katmai adventure begins the air where you will be introduced to to the Park’s history and the ways of its famous coastal brown bears. Image: ©Scott Stone

The Katmai coast soon comes into view. Mt. Steller and Mt. Kukak, one of Katmai's many active volcanos, the jagged Devils Desk peaks, and Hallo Glacier own the horizon as we begin our descent to the river below. The majesty of this scene always leaves me speechless.

In our final approach, you see them. The giants of the Katmai coast, by the dozens, feeding below. We are moments away from walking with the giants!

Coastal brown bears, although naturally solitary, often gather in large groups in concentrated feeding area. They avoid dangerous conflicts through a complex “language” and social structure. Image: ©Scott Stone

Our pilot sets the floats down as smoothly as is possible, and we help get everyone to shore. For me, this is "sacred soil" and one of the world's most incredible places. One moment more for our last safety briefing and to get our camera gear situated - and we are off!

Meet the Gentle Giants of Katmai National Park

As we walk toward the river and crest the bank, you begin to see the amazing chocolate boars (male) and stunning sun-bleached sows (females) grazing on the goose tongue and other sedge grasses of this rare landscape. During the "grazing season" between May 25-July 15th, when the bears get active, this stretch is home to over 100 individuals. They gather in this meadow to socialize, breed and graze, many with cubs to raise. The rich grasses found here have the highest nutrient content the bears can eat until the salmon runs start in late July.

Found exclusively on the islands of Alaska’s Kodiak Archipelago, coastal brown bears have been isolated from their relatives for about 12,000 years. Image: ©Scott Stone

Following park guidelines, we approach the bears slowly and methodically, making our way to different individuals. The incredible beauty of the landscape can be overwhelming.

Most of us have a fear of bears firmly ingrained, but as we approach our first bear, it seems to vanish magically, and their energy and soul envelop you. You begin to realize the giants of Katmai do not see us as a threat.

Young bears stay with their mother for up to 4 years. When they finally leave, some of the subadults become “juvenile delinquents” for a period, causing problems with other bears and humans. This is not uncommon among many species - including our ow… — Young bears stay with their mother for up to 4 years. When they finally leave, some of the subadults become “juvenile delinquents” for a period, causing problems with other bears and humans. This is not uncommon among many species - including our own. Image: ©Scott Stone

Throughout our time with the bears, you will have the opportunity to watch various behaviors and interactions between them. Don't be surprised if you conclude that they are very much like us in their social ways. Except when competing over territory or breeding rights, the big dominant males try to avoid each other staying to themselves for the most part.

Sows with young want their space, too, and spend much of their days napping and playing with their cubs. Sets of siblings play together; this is also practice for fending for themselves when they reach adulthood.

Typical litters are 2-3 cubs that weigh less than a pound (.4kilo) at birth (January and February). Over 25% of them will die before they leave their mother. Adult males are a major cause cub mortality. Image: ©Scott Stone

The Katmai Effect

Don't be surprised if, when in the midsts of these giants, a sense of calm comes over you. In a world free of hunting, man is not a threat to the bears; we are not competing for their food. We respect them, and in turn, they allow us a window into their world, which very few get to experience. Being with these bears is life-changing.

Hallo Bay will grab hold of your soul and change your perspective on life as well as bears. What exists here is something that exists in very few places around the world. We remind everyone that the "Katmai experience" should never be tried with other species [or any other place]. This is beyond sacred and rare.

The bears are naturally diurnal (active during the day), but after a hard day of foraging, a nice nap in the sunshine is always welcome. Image: ©Scott Stone

Photographing Brown Bears

This place is a photographer's dream. We work with guests to help them plan what equipment to bring. Anything from a wide-angle lens to the standard 24- 600mm range should cover your needs.

Alaska does not always offer perfect light, so faster aperture lenses pay in the long run. Many people, including me, use the 70-200/300 f/2.8 and the 100-400/500mm range lenses, but many new options of mirrorless cameras offer other lens options as well.

Clients should plan to keep their gear limited to 40lbs/18kilos or less on standard views, but we will work with anyone on extended full-day viewing trips and coordinate gear accordingly.

The largest carnivore on earth is an omnivore, spending more time eating grass, plants and berries than meat. They rarely expend the energy necessary to chase and catch mammals, but they are good fishermen. Image: ©Scott Stone

A Kodiak Afterglow

When it is finally time to lead the group back to the plane for the return flight to Kodiak island, I am on a spiritual high. Don't be surprised if you feel mentally exhausted on the 50-minute flight back to "The Rock," as Kodiak is accurately named. As you look through photos and discuss this epic day, the power of all you have experienced begins to set in.

Once back at Kodiak, and we have landed on the water and head off for the evening, it is time to relax. Or, often, we head out again, taking guests to find Kodiak bears fishing just minutes from town, filling the day to the brim with bear activity that before today was only a dream.

Costal brown bears have some of the smallest home ranges of any brown bear population, this is made possible by the rich variety of food available here. Image:©Scott Stone

A Passion for Brown Bears

For many, a trip to Katmai is not only is a check on their bucket list but an experience impossible to equal. And for those of us blessed and lucky enough to guide these viewing trips, you can bet we feel beyond privileged and thankful that we get to share our love and passion for the amazing brown bears of the Katmai coast.

In 1918 local politicians were launching bitter attacks against the brown bears, today they are protected and beloved by Alaskans and visitors alike, the brown bear population is healthy, productive, and relaxed. Image: ©Scott Stone

I give my entire soul to studying bears and their behaviors, and it is my goal each and every time to give my guests a world-class experience and hopefully the best day of their lives.