Notes From Africa, A New York Photographer Follows His Heart
I observed and followed this infant and could not make out its sex, but it would be a male if I had to guess. My reasoning is: the baby was attracted to the silverback, and the silverback seemed to enjoy his presence. Having this opportunity to watch the baby and silverback is why I had to make this journey and experience one of the true wonders of nature. Image: ©Larry Blau
Wildlife photographer, Larry Blau and friend.
“Sometimes,” says Team member Larry Blau, “…you just have to do something for your head."
For two years, like all of us, Larry canceled travel and life plans and hunkered down against the ravages of COVID. Instead of pursuing his twin passions: traveling and exotic wildlife photography, Larry explored the yards and beaches near his Long Island, New York home. Then, just as restrictions began to ease – Larry needed a hip replacement. That was the final straw.
Larry scheduled the operation and, against his wife's pleas and doctor's advice, bought his ticket to see the mountain gorillas of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park leaving eight weeks after the operation and a few days after rehab.
I told him he was crazy.
That mountain gorilla habitat is not called "Impenetrable" for nothing.
Larry's answer was, "sometimes you have to do something for your head." In this case, I think it was also for his heart – and ours, too.
Larry will be sharing the full story with us soon, but these are some of the daily notes he sent back along the way.
Enjoy them, I did! And may all your journeys do good! Roberta
Once You Have Experienced the Beauty of Africa, She will Lure You Back
African wild dogs hunt as a team and have a higher success rate than lions and leopards. Wild Dogs, like wolves, cannot be domesticated. Image: ©Larry Blau
Hi Everyone,
My mind is so ready for Africa and its raw beauty. This image was taken in southern Tanzania at a place called "The Selous Game Reserve." We had just arrived via bush plane, boarded our open-air land rovers, and started for our camp when we spotted a pack of African wild dogs. African wild dogs are endangered, you do not see them much anymore. It is estimated that there are approximately five thousand remaining. They live in tightly-knit social groups. They will even take care of injured members and bring them food until they recover. They hunt as a team and have a higher success rate than lions and leopards. Wild Dogs, like wolves, cannot be domesticated.
I hope to see some African wild dogs on this trip. For me, they are one of the creatures that make sub-Saharan Africa such a special place. ☞Editor’s Note: More on African wild or painted dogs.
I am leaving Friday morning and will be back the evening of March 17th. Even though this is a photography trip and I will be traveling with six other photographers, for me, this trip is not about photography but my head. There is a saying that "Once you experience the beauty of Africa, she will lure you back." I have experienced that beauty on seven other occasions, and she is still luring me back. Her beauty has become a part of my soul, and it has been two years since I have absorbed that beauty.
Hopefully, I will be able to send some pictures from there, but the internet is very spotty at the Camps.
Love, Larry
Photographing Lions in the Grass Never Gets Tired
An hour after sunrise, this lioness was busy watching her cubs, she looks tired, she was probably hunting during the night. Image: ©Larry Blau
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Hi Everyone,
I will never get tired or bored of taking pictures of lions in the tall grass of the African savannah. I believe the tall grass enhances and frames the subject in its natural habitat. It is always better to search for lions early in the morning or late afternoon. Once the temperature rises, they tend to seek a cool place to spend the day. During the day, you tend to find them under a giant acacia tree, sleeping, or in the thickest part of the tall grass.
This image was taken about one hour after sunrise; the lioness watched over her two cubs nearby. Lionesses can control when they have cubs. If there is not enough food around, a lioness will wait until there is before giving birth. Cubs will remain with their mothers until they are about two years old and then can defend themselves.
Love, Larry
Day 2. Morning Coffee with Five Little Bee Eaters
Five little bee eaters sitting on a branch in the early morning sun. (Merops pusillus) Image: ©Larry Blau
Hi Everyone,
We had pulled over for breakfast, and I was drinking some great Kenyan coffee when I noticed five little bee-eaters sitting on a branch. I also noticed that the one on the left was having his breakfast, too. He has a dragonfly in his mouth and seems to be enjoying every last morsel.
Close-up of the three little bee eaters on the left side of the branch. Turns out I was not the only one having breakfast. Image: ©Larry Blau
Little bee-eaters are found mostly in sub-Saharan Africa. They usually inhabit open areas near bushes and trees and a water source. They weigh 0.03 ounces or 0.015 kg. When they catch an insect with a stinger, they will repeatedly hit and rub the insect on a hard surface to remove the stinger and toxins. I wonder how they learned to do this? This sort of behavior shows a unique type of intelligence. Unlike other bee-eaters, little bee-eaters do not breed in colonies. Instead, they nest in burrows, and both parents share in the incubation.
Previously, I had never seen them in more than pairs, and it seemed unique to see five together.
Love, Larry
At Lewa Wildlife Conservancy I Discovered Why They Are Called “White” Rhinos
This is a Southern White Rhino with a red-billed oxpecker and a startling. Lewa wildlife Conservancy is currently home to over two hundred of the only 20,000 Southern white rhinos left on the planet. Image: ©Larry Blau
Hi Everyone,
On my first-afternoon game drive, we were able to get up close with a large bull white rhino. But, why are they called “white” rhinos when they are not White? Their name comes from the Afrikaans language. The word "weit" means wide and refers to the animal's mouth. They are sometimes referred to as the square-lipped rhino since they have a square upper lip with almost no hair. White rhinos are the world's second-largest [land] mammal, right behind elephants, and the most sociable of the five rhino species.
The birds in this picture are an oxpecker and starling. Oxpeckers feed on the rhino's ticks and alert them to approaching humans through sound. Rhinos do not have good vision but have great hearing. While watching this male, I observed his large ears constantly twitching. The starling feeds on flies. Both birds have formed a symbiotic relationship with the rhino, helping each other survive.
One of the standards I adhere to is not to remove anything from my images. I strive to present them as naturally as possible. I could have removed the two small blades of grass in front of the eye but did not. This picture is not about the "eye" but about the huge size of this animal and how two tiny birds have created a mutual relationship with them.
Love, Larry
Portrait of a Masai Grandmother for Olivia
If I had the opportunity to retake this picture, I would have given more room on the right side by the shadow. I find the expression and face of this grandmother very telling, and the creases on her face add to the appeal. Image: ©Larry Blau
Hi Everyone,
I called (my friend) Olivia last night, and her comment was, "birds, birds, and more birds." So, I decided to send everyone a portrait of a Masai Grandmother I took while visiting a local Masai Village.
The village is surrounded by a BOMA or large fence constructed of thorns to keep lions and other predators out. The Masai live in hard-caked mud huts. Goats and sheep are kept inside corrals at night. There were an enormous amount of flies. Sometimes the flies covered most of my camera and exposed skin.
The Masai used to move their village every six months, but today do not move as much. When they left their village, they would burn it down, destroying all the flies and ticks accumulated due to the dung. Since they move less now, the flies and ticks have become a problem.
Love, Larry
Surprise! All Zebra are NOT the Same!
Grevy's zebras (far left) are closely related to the wild ass, while plains zebras (other four) are more closely related to the horse. Grevy's are the largest zebra species, taller than plains or mountain zebras, and larger ears and narrower stripes. Image: ©Larry Blau
Hi Everyone,
Before visiting Lewa, I thought that all zebras were the same. Was I wrong. There are three different types of zebras, the plains, mountain, and Grevy's zebra. The plains zebra is the most common, but every zebra's stripes and patterns are unique, like our fingerprints.
We spent time at a very active local watering hole; the zebra in the rear, the last one, is a Grevy's named after a former king of France, Jules Grevy. He received one as a gift from an African king in 1882.}
It is estimated that there are only 2500 remaining Grevy's zebras in the wild. They are the most threatened of the three species and are found only in Kenya and Ethiopia. Poachers prefer Grevy's because they are large and have magnificent skin and almost hunted them to extinction. However, Kenya's Grevy's Zebra Trust brought this species back, and they are now thriving in Lewa Wildlife Conservancy.
Love, Larry
☞ More on Africa’s three zebra species
Morning With a Gerenuk, Afternoon at the Clinic
With fewer than 100,000 individuals, Gerenuks are classified as near threatened, and their numbers are decreasing. I was so happy to get this picture. Image: ©Larry Blau
Hi Everyone,
On each of my eight African trips, she showed me a species I had never seen before. The attached image is a "Gerenuk." The word "Gerenuk" comes from the Somali language and is translated as "giraffe-necked." Gerenuks can walk on their hind legs, but only for short distances. Gerenuks use their bodies to stand straight up on their hind legs and stretch their neck to feed upon higher branches and twigs. They don't need to drink water and get all their moisture from the plants they consume and thus can inhabit dry areas.
Females are very protective of their young. After feeding, mothers always clean their calves and eat any remaining food since remaining food may attract predators. They communicate with their calves through gentle sounds and soft calls.
I was so happy to be able to capture this creature standing up while eating. {We spotted a small herd of about six individuals.} They seemed to be peaceful and highly social.
On another note, I had to take a day off from the safari due to stomach issues. The camp took me to a clinic, rehydrated me, checked for parasites, and got me some medication. This was the first time I had ever gotten sick in Africa, and I felt lucky.
Love, Larry
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Why do elephants walk in a line? One theory is that it may deter predators from their trail. Elephants demonstrate concern for members of their families. They take care of weak or injured members and appear to grieve over a dead companion. The calves will hold onto their mothers' tails, and the whole herd constantly protects the young.Image: ©Larry Blau
Day 7. Elephants and Moving on to Uganda
Hi Everyone,
I saw this group of elephants walking in a straight line towards the watering hole and asked the driver if I could get out and lay on the ground to take the picture. He laughed and said "No Way!" So I lowered my camera as far as it would go with me sitting in the jeep and used my monitor to take the picture.
Today is our travel day to Uganda. We leave Lewa at 9:15 for a one-hour bush ride to Nairobi, followed by a commercial flight to Uganda. I have been taking it easy today since I do not want to miss the gorillas. There are only two places in the world where you can get up close with them, Uganda and Rwanda. It is tough to make reservations, and my motivation for this trip is to see the gorillas. If I had cut my trip early and flown home before seeing the gorillas, I would resent the decision for the rest of my life. That is not going to happen.
This is an image of a juvenile; I focused on his eyes. It seems like he needs to be seen by a dentist. Bamboo is hard to chew. Image: ©Larry Blau
Finally! The “African Helicopter” Takes Me to Gorillas!
Hi Everyone,
We took our first Gorilla trek at Bwindi Wilderness in Uganda this morning. About a dozen men carried me on what they call an "African Helicopter." It is a chair bolted onto two long pieces of wood, similar to a chair that ancient people, such as the Chinese, would carry royalty. They carried me up and down steep hills, and we stopped in a field of tea to rest. Eventually, we met the trackers, and they let me out. Now the hard part.
Bwindi is the home for about one-half of the critically endangered wild Mountain Gorillas. Armed guards protect the Wilderness. Accessibility is very limited.
Our small group followed the government rangers through and thick jungle until we found the gorilla family. The ground was dense with roots and red ants. I fell twice, but my two porters helped me up and carried my camera. The Rangers were constantly hacking the vines with machetes.
We then tried to get as close as we could but never could get close enough without leaves and branches in the way. The light was horrific with sun and then shade every few feet. My glasses constantly fogged up and my clothes became caked with mud and dirt. This is the natural habitat of Gorillas and not a perfect situation for photography!
But, photography is also about the experience, and the memory of this one will last a lifetime.
Love, Larry
This mother gorilla’s baby is hiding behind the tree, you can see its little hand opposite its mom’s on the tree. Image: ©Larry Blau
A Second Gorilla Trek in Bwindi Brings a “Close” Encounter!
Hi Everyone
I finally experienced the mountain gorillas the way I always wanted to. After a disappointing first gorilla trek, I thought about calling the second one off and resting my tired body, but this is not what I am. So before dawn, I dragged myself out of bed, ate breakfast, and boarded the jeep. Off we went to the Bwindi Impregnable Forest Wildness for a second attempt to fulfill one of my goals.
We had to go through the same orientation as the first day, and then we were assigned a Ranger to lead us to visit one of the families. This experience is very restricted, with only thirty-two permits issued daily by the government. The waiting list is lengthy. Porters brought my "African helicopter," and off we went.
Our group followed the Ranger and two armed guards and eventually walked over an old wooden bridge creaky with age. Finally, they set me down, and told us to put on our masks. Masks are always required, and that includes pre-covid. The Ranger met up with the scouts, and the jungle seemed to come alive with gorillas. I experimented with a new camera mode, and it worked perfectly.
This is an image of one of the mothers and the hand of one of her young. The family consists of three mothers, five young, and the leader or silverback. The original silverback was fatally injured when he fell from a tree. One of his brothers, or the current silverback, took over the leadership. His first act was to kill all the young males. The need to ensure that only his bloodline continues is strong. Lions practice a similar behavior.
Love, Larry
When I first noticed these sunbirds, I thought about the hummingbirds I have seen during my travels. Hummingbirds (found in the Americas) hover to feed on nectar, but sunbirds suck on nectar while perched on branches. Image: ©Larry Blau
Sunbird, My Late Afternoon Reward
Hi Everyone,
Late in the afternoon, I was sitting on my veranda overlooking a large mountain, part of the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, when I noticed this sunbird having his dinner. There are about 145 different species of sunbirds mainly found in the rainforests or savannas of Africa, Asia, and Australia. Sunbirds weigh between 0.1-1.5 ounces; they can live up to 22 years. They communicate using high-pitched calls and songs and by body language. Their diet mainly consists of nectar from flowering plants.
Africa has taught me always to keep my eyes open; you never know when the reward will come. I love the curved beak and how nature made it fit into flowers perfectly.
Love, Larry
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Image: ©Larry Blau
Reflections and Tips on Primate Photography
Hi Everyone
Why is Gorilla and Chimp photography so difficult? This picture almost tells the story. Besides constant areas of sunlight and darkness, you need to contend with twigs, leaves, and branches. You constantly have to adjust your settings and risk the subject moving away. Even after you think you got a great shot, these pictures require much more post-editing than I usually do. You have to be flexible, and I knew that I had to change my approach on the second day.
I always want to shoot in manual mode, but when there's a lot to contend with, some of the burdens need to shift to the camera. So, I switched to Shutter Priority. With Shutter Priority, I choose the shutter speed, and the camera selects the aperture. Usually, I will not shoot in this mode since I often do not agree with the aperture chosen by the camera. Still, in this instance, I was much more successful.
This picture is about two things: first is the juvenile gorilla's eyes and stare, the second is the natural habitat. There are branches, twigs, and leaves all over; furthermore, the ground is slippery mud, with roots and vines and difficult to maneuver around. And this is a thick and dense jungle. So if someone wants a perfect shot, they should not go to Uganda but visit one of the great zoos instead.
Love, Larry
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Mountain Gorillas only live in two isolated groups. One group is in the Virunga Volcanoes region and spans national parks in three countries: Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. The other group is here, in the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. The latest census estimated the total number of Mountain Gorillas to be 1063. They are endangered. Image: ©Larry Blau
Silverback. The Big Guy and Going Home
Hi Everyone,
Here is the Big Guy lying in a sea of tea leaves, watching his family and keeping an eye on us.
It seemed like he watched every movement of each one of us. Why are they called Silverbacks? Gorillas are classified as infants until they reach about three and one half years old and adults from around eight years. Males between 8-12 are called "Blackbacks". After twelve, the males develop a silver section of hair over their back and hips. Both the silverback and females will watch over, cuddle and take care of the young. I noticed the young always trying to be near the silverback more than their mothers. Maybe the male infants, his sons, are attracted to his presence.
***
I am currently in a day room in Entebbe. My flight leaves at 11:30 PM, I fly to Amsterdam, and then it's home. I just had a negative Covid test. I am so relieved. And my head and heart are once again filled with the natural beauty of Africa, my soul is quiet.
Much more to come in the weeks ahead.
Love, Larry
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