Can a Bird and Wildlife Watching Safari in Namibia Help Save Grasslands in New York State?
There is no birding in Africa without also wildlife watching. This Tawny Eagle was not impressed by the huge male elephant in musth. It calmly watched the unfolding drama (see below!) Image: ©Roberta Kravette
Roberta Kravette
Note from the editor: How does a small non-profit in rural New York State raise money to save vital carbon-sequestering grasslands that provide essential habitat for endangered short-eared and snowy owls, meadowlarks, bobolinks, vesper sparrows, and more? By going to Africa, of course!
Early this year a small group of nature-loving folks, myself included, enjoyed a birding and wildlife safari to Namibia, Africa. Our local naturalist guide, introduced us to hundreds of new species, we stayed in comfortable locally owned accommodations and enjoyed delicious locally grown food, and raised $12,000 for the Grassland Bird Trust in Fort Edward, New York. Our bird and wildlife watching trip to Namibia was an Unforgettable Journey that did Good! These are some of my favorite moments. Enjoy! Roberta (Interested in more fund raising information? Just reach out.)
Wide open as far as you can see, Namibia has room to breath. The water hole at the lodge on our first night in Etosha National Park. After the sun set, Giraffes and Rhino sauntered in to drink. Image: ©Roberta Kravette
✓ Trip Tips Where: Namibia, Africa
When: March and April
How: Small group tour.
Who: Adults or families
Why: Birding, wildlife viewing or photography
AND raise funds for non-profits. Interested?
My 10 Most Cherished Memories on Our Birding and Wildlife Safari in Namibia
Africa! Just saying the word conjures visions of mountainous elephants, barrel-shaped rhinos, graceful, doe-eyed antelope, striped zebra, and long-necked giraffes! But then there are the birds. In Namibia alone, there are over 700 species in a profusion of colors, sizes, and unique characters living among those iconic beasts. Birding in Africa is unforgettable - and Namibia is one of my favorite African destinations. (See below for a list of other birding in Namibia articles)
I love its wide-open moonscape feel, with the endless sky, and warm, languid days, melting into crisp, cool nights. And with only 2.5 million people in a country the size of Texas, Namibia has room to breathe! The minute we stepped off the plane, I could feel my body relaxing and my soul filling with peace.
We met our naturalist guide, Marc Cronje, in Windhoek, Namibia's capital city – and after a welcome dinner and good night's sleep, we were off!
It would be impossible to do exploration justice to all of Namibia's regions and landscapes in only two weeks, so our tour concentrated on a route that took us into Namibia's arid north to Etosha National Park, then east across the Caprivi strip and finally across the border into Botswana's lush Okavango and back.
Unforgettable sightings of birds, wildlife, and landscape filled every day – but these are 10 of my favorite moments in Namibia.
#1 Discovering Etosha’s Secret Wild World
Birds and wildlife live nose-to-tail in Africa’s national parks like Etosha. This is a Blacksmith Lapwing followed by a Black-backed Jackal. Image: ©Larry Blau
What’s in a name? The word “Etosha” means “great white place” in the Ndonga language and the National Park, with its enormous salt pan created by an ancient, dried lake (approximately 1,900 square miles /4,800 square km.), is like no other place on earth. Its hard, white, cracked surface patterned by the empty hoof prints of long-gone wildlife stretches onward until it seems to touch the sky. This land is empty. Isn’t it?
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Just when you’re sure nothing could live here something moves.
This seemingly empty wilderness hides a surprising array of desert-adapted wildlife from aardwolf (we saw one!) to zebra. Stop. Stay still. Look down. African ground squirrels, dozens of them, are busy chasing, munching, posing all around you. In the distance, a black rhino has appeared out of nowhere. Then a herd of desert adapted plains zebra saunters in. And soon, as your eyes adjust to this new terrain and you begin to “see,” you will find yourself surrounded by birds.
For me, one of the most amazing bird sightings here is the blue crane. It is found only in a few areas of South Africa and one tiny section of Etosha National Park. Although IUNC listed as Vulnerable, in Namibia blue crane are Critically Endangered. How critical? In 2017 there were only 32 blue crane here. We saw them!
Some desert-adapted species, like the springbok, are able to live with only moisture from the scrub plants. Interestingly, they manage this by grazing before dawn, when the plants are filled with the most moisture. For other species, water holes (helped by solar pumps) scattered throughout the Park are a critical survival factor in the dry season for both the furred and feathered: lions and elephants, rhinos, giraffes, hippos, zebras (oh, the babies!), and birds! Like Italy's famous Tivoli Fountain, it seems all of Namibia’s “secret” desert dwellers eventually arrive at the waterhole - if you are patient long enough.
#2 Finding Two Brash Birds on Opposite Sides of the Color / Size Spectrum
The Kore Bustard - Big, Cocky, and Camouflaged !
A pair of Kori Bustards appeared from behind the brush. Later a one appeared at one of our group’s cabin window, he awoke to find himself eye-to-eye with a bird that can weigh up to 40lb./18KG! Image: ©Penelope Tallman
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Namibia’s birds played a central role in many of my favorite moments. They never ceased to surprise - and these feathered opposites starred in two two of my favorites.
It was early on our first morning in Etosha, with the air warm and still, when we moved across the silent plain, empty as far as we could see – or was it? On closer look, springbok, dozens of them, gentle latte-colored antelope, were scattered across the flat plain nibbling on the sage-colored scrub. They were so close we could see their eyelashes. How did we miss them?
Just then a pair of big Kori bustards, perfectly colored to disappear into the landscape, strutted out from behind a clump of scrub.
Africa's heaviest flying bird strides over the grasslands and savannas of south-eastern Africa looking for insects, lizards, snakes – and sometimes seeds and fruit, too, flying only when necessary. The cocky Koris fascinate me; I could have watched them for hours.
However, suddenly - a flash of impossibly bright color caught our eye. Roller!
The Lilac-Breasted Roller - A Little Flying Rainbow
One of the world’s most beautiful birds, the Lilac-breasted Roller obliges by sitting in the open, seeming to pose for the camera. Even I got a good shot! Image: ©Roberta Kravette
If plumage is meant to conceal, this bird didn't get the memo. The gorgeously colorful rollers are easily identifiable, especially the lilac-breasted ones with their vibrant blue, green, and violet coloring. They seem to know how beautiful they are, showing their finery on exposed branches of thorny acacia next to the road, posing for the camera.
One member of our group (not a birder!) became so captivated with the rainbow colored beauties that he sounded lilac-breasted roller alerts at least a dozen times in a single day! It was worth every stop. He could not get enough, and neither could we. Thanks to him, even I got a good picture!
#3. Catching Female Elephants Gently but Firmly Control a Huge Male in Musth.
Later that same day, we traveled down a road empty of other cars (shoulder season is the time to go!), and nary a springbok anywhere to be seen when suddenly, as if on cue, an elephant stepped out from a crop of acacia trees directly in front of us. Another followed it, then another, until an entire herd rumbled past, heading toward a nearby waterhole. We were thrilled! A big female led the way followed by more adults and sub-adults. Tiny babies weaved in and out between tree-trunk legs, the mothers, aunties, and older siblings stepped carefully around them – and then a rare sight.
From this angle you cannot see the musth running down the sides of his face, but you can see the male is significantly taller and bigger than the adult females keeping order on either side. Image ©Marc Cronje
An enormous, agitated adult male appeared in the center of the feminine parade. It towered over the herd, the sides of his face wet with musth. Flanking him on either side, strutting with all the cockiness of teenagers - came two sub-adult males – evidence of their excitement practically dragging on the ground. The adult females kept a wary eye on the aggressive bull while efficiently inserting themselves between the randy boys and their daughters.
Aunties and older siblings kept a close watch on the youngest members of the herd, all the little ones got their turns at the water hole. Image: ©Penelope Tallmen
As the elephants single-filed toward the waterhole, a tawny eagle watched from its vantage point high on a lone dead tree.
Elephant herds are usually all related adult and sub-adult females led by a matriarch, plus their babies and juveniles of both sexes. However, at about 15 years, the young males become unbearable (hmmm), and the adult females throw them out of the herd. As a result, the suddenly-solo boys seek out and attempt to join adult males who also live alone or in small bachelor groups. The years spent under the adult males' watchful eye - and short fuses - are imperative to the young males’ maturation process.
But today, the big male, full of bombastic self-importance (and desire), stomping and blustering, was not in charge. Instead, the calm and steady ladies were calling the shots. Under their guidance the entire herd drank, each taking their turn, the females making sure that even littlest ones got their chance, too.
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Zebra kept their distance - especially from the big male. Notice the zebra passed by when the male’s back was turned! An impala watched from the other side. Image: ©Roberta Kravette
A herd of (clever!) Zebra arrived but kept their distance. We watched the scene for over an hour before the elephants, finally water-sated, moved on – the ladies again in the lead, the frustrated male strutting his best with his ever-hopeful juvenile accomplices jostling for position.
It was a magnificent show!
# 4 Witnessing Baby Zebras Discover Their World!
The peak of new zebra births is January, we saw this adorable very new little plains zebra foal in March. They are easy prey for lions so mama is always close by. Image: ©Penelope Tallman
Nothing can grab your heart faster than a baby animal in the wild - but the zebra babies, well, to me they are especially precious. Sweet and shy, the gawky young foals' long wobbly legs, and thin, delicate bodies contrast sharply against their stocky, solid mothers. I love to watch them romp and play.
Namibia is famous for its beautiful herds of both plains and mountain zebra. And we were there at the perfect time to watch the young zebra foals (born January - March) discover their world.
# 5 Finding Birds with Big Hair – er Feathers
Tha African Hoopie was named for its call - but if ever a bird looked like it deserved its name, it is this wonderful guy! Image; ©Lawrence Blau
True confession – please don't tell anyone; I love birds with big hair -er- crests. There I've said it, but it's our secret! We were lucky to see two of my favorites in Namibia.
The African Hoopie
Who wouldn't love something called a Hoopie? It just sounds like fun. The African hoopoe is a medium-sized chestnut-colored bird with a long curved beak, bright black eyes, and racy white and black striped wings – add that handsome "hairdo," and this is a bird to admire! Even King Solomon was so impressed by the Hoopie that he asked for its advice (or so it is told). Who wouldn't? I finally saw one in the wild. It sat on an exposed branch near the road, as though it was thinking, it’s about time. It was perfect timing.
The Fabulous Secretary Bird
The Secretary Bird, another of Africa’s largest bird species, is one of my favorites. They look like fun - but watch out. These birds have a world-class kick! Image; ©Marc Cronge
Secretary birds are another of my all-time top favorite avian species. They say it got its name from the spikey head feathers that someone thought looked like pencils stuck in hair. Hmmm. Can you imagine being named after an office job? Well, everyone knows that the office manager (a more apt term for the crucial position) runs the company – and so, maybe "Secretary bird" is not such a stretch after all. This bird rules its world.
First, the Secretary bird is really big. It has a wingspan of 6.9 feet (2.1m) and stands up to 4ft 6in (1.3m) tall on long legs that deliver one of the most brutal kicks in the animal kingdom. It can hit its target with force equal to 5 to 6 times its 9-pound (4+ kilo) body weight!
Still, even if you knew nothing about this bird's feisty character, its beautiful blue-grey and black coloring, majestic strut, and fabulous headdress renders this bird unforgettable. We found one determinedly striding through the grass, head feathers fluttering. Fantastic!
6. Watching Namibia's Rapacious Raptors
On the other hand, Africa's assortment of stern-looking raptors is a no-nonsense collection of species that includes the Bateleur, Marshal, tawny, and snake-eating eagles, falcons, Cape vultures (very rare), and more, each with a distinctive, bold character. These birds rule the sky.
But of all the raptors we saw, I love the chanting (pale or dark) goshawks best.
An Enchanting Chanting Goshawk Encounter
There is something special about this proud bird. Chanting (pale or dark) goshawks are not the biggest, rarest, or most unusually "dressed," but with gray-blue feathers, vibrant orange legs and beak, and proud upright stance, these birds have style and presence!
We saw them in several locations, but one particular sighting touched my heart. The goshawk was perched in a bare branch on a lone tree near the road – orange legs and beak glowing against its dusky plumage in the soft afternoon light.
Our guide, naturalist, Marc Cronje, stopped the vehicle. The bird held its head proud, its gold-red eyes taking in every inch of its surrounding – including us. He was permitting us to be there.
We were quiet, though surely it must have heard our whispers and the clicking of our camera shutters, but the goshawk remained still, dignified, the master of its universe. It allowed us time to take our photos, showing off its impressive profile, first left, then right.
Finally, it looked directly at us, staring for a minute as if to say, Snap your final shots - this session is over. A moment later, it stretched its solid, broad wings, and with a single movement, sailed toward the heavens, and was gone.
Africa's fierce and fabulous raptors are characters. Every one!
# 7: Morning Coffee in the Bush with Friends
The perfect tree, the perfect moment for a cup of morning coffee in Babwata National Park. Namibia
Can you imagine a morning, bright and crisp, just you and a few close friends? A herd of graceful lechwe grazes near the river, egrets and herons tip-toe along its bank, weavers and hornbills busy in the trees, and not another human for miles.
Can you imaging finding a single ancient tree, wind-shaped into an arch ideally suited to shading your vehicle. You slip out to stretch your legs, your sandy footprints dwarfed by the elephants' who had recently passed by. Someone hands you a tin mug of steaming coffee made from sparkling brown crystals sprinkled into thermos-held hot water and crunchy buttermilk rusks dunked and delicious. Imagine how wonderful the coffee would taste as you sipped, crunched, and laughed and papyrus waved along the riverbank. Paradise.
# 8: Visually Cuddling Big Cats
Our guide, Marc, said “be patient and watch what happens” Seeing this iconic cheetah stance with our own eyes was worth the wait! She was amazing! Image: ©Marc Cronje
Who does not love the big cats? And Namibia has three in residence: the lion, leopard, and cheetah.
One late afternoon we came upon three adult cheetahs napping and under a tree, stretching and taking turns watching the young ones while they played. Then, right before dusk, as though turned on by a switch, the dozing adults were suddenly up, alert, and ready for the evening hunt. Just before they disappeared, one of the cheetahs climbed onto a nearby ant hill. That iconic sighting was a spectacular bonus to an unforgettable afternoon.
9. Absorbing the African Sunset
Africa is almost as famous for its sunsets as it is for its wildlife. They are soul-searing and unforgettable. Image: ©Constance Hasko
#10 Sharing it All with Friends
After a few days in Etosha, we left to venture along the Caprivi strip and crossed into Botswana (another story!), where our world abruptly turned lush and green. We explored the feathered, furred, and not-furred life on the Okavango and enjoyed the moonrise on the water surrounded by hippos, crocs, and wading birds galore. But, unfortunately, even extraordinary adventures eventually come to an end.
It was time to head back to Windhoek. And bonded by an unforgettable journey, we talked, laughed, and debated our top favorite moments. There were many ardent opinions, but three points were unanimous:
The First: Namibia is unforgettable.
The Second: Discovering both Namibia and life-long friends simultaneously is even better.
The Third: Discovering Namibia with (now) life-long friends in a way that helps preserve the beauty, ecology, and people of two continents is the best of all possible worlds.
