5 Fabulous Days in Paradise, Welcome to Yuquiyú
THE RIVER, SWOLLEN AFTER THE RAIN, AT THE FOOT OF THE YUQUIYÚ FARM AND GARDEN. BRING A BOOK, A CAMERA, YOUR SKETCH PAD, OR AN OLD-TIME WRITING PAD. BETTER YET, JUST BRING YOUR YOURSELF. IMAGE: © LES MEDLEY
ROBERTA KRAVETTE, EDITOR DESTINATION: WILDLIFE.
By Roberta Kravette
The air has gone still. Tiny droplets on a million leaves flash with the sun’s last rays, then turn to shadow. Night is gently enveloping the mountain.
This will not be a silent night. As the last light disappears, a symphony of sound begins to rise, growing louder and more confident by the second. It spills over the balcony’s railing, peeping, chirping, humming, deep tones and high, single notes and full phrases rise and fall then rise again.
EVENINGS ARE MAGIC ON YOUR TREEHOUSE DECK. WE LIT A CANDLE, SIPPED SOME WINE, AND WATCHED THE STARS COME OUT TO THE MUSIC OF THE COQUÍ. IMAGE: ©ROBERTA KRAVETTE
✔︎Trip Tips
Who: Solo or Couples. Not appropriate for children or pets. No Accessible
What: Glamping in a comfortable treehouse.
Time: 2-Night Minimum
When: Year-round. Best Time: October through late August
How: Fly into San Juan, drive (30 minutes) to Yuquiyú Contact Us
I can identify none of my noisy neighbors among the palms and breadfruit trees, the birds-of-paradise, and the hibiscus except for one: coquí. Although I have never seen it, the sound of the tiny, pale coquí frog, symbol of Puerto Rico, is unmistakable. They call their name as clearly as you would say yours.
We have been living in a hand-made treehouse at Yuquiyú Farm and Garden for three lovely days. We came from New York, ready to relax, unwind, and refresh clutching a carry-on full of computers, cables, smartphones, and a double list of to-dos. What?
After three perfume-scented days, the technology is still packed, but the city-stress is long gone.
YUQUIYU’S FOUR TREEHOUSES ARE SPACED FOR PRIVACY THROUGHOUT THE LUSH GARDEN. IMAGE: © ROBERTA KRAVETTE
Meet Our Roommate, Larry
As darkness falls, the treehouse is softly lit, cozy, and snug. Larry lizard is in his favorite place upside down on a ceiling rafter. He glances at us once, then, unimpressed, goes back to his searching. As Martin so often said, Yuquiyú is not for everyone. Larry or his friends will visit, invited or not. Larry hunts little flying things that can annoy these city-dwellers. Quiet, shy, and very skilled, he’s a great roommate.
In a few minutes, we will head to the covered outdoor café to enjoy a sumptuous vegan diner lovingly prepared by manager/ chef Fyah with ingredients he grew himself right here.
WE CANNOT IDENTIFY THIS LITTLE GUY, CAN YOU? CONTACT US. WE NAMED HIM LARRY, HE STAYED WITH US THE WHOLE WEEK. IMAGE: ©ROBERTA KRAVETTE
Don’t Miss Dinner from the Garden
The meal begins with a refreshing slushy. Manny, who together with Fyah manages Yuquiyú, will give you the evening’s choices. Papaya, banana, pineapple, all from the garden, are a few we were offered. But frankly, once you have tried the fresh mint/lime slushy made with mint picked from the garden an hour ago, you may never want anything else. I dream about them now.
A two-course meal of appetizer and the main course follows the slushy. Everything we tried was yummy, but our favorite appetizer is the warm pesto and tomato flatbread. Hummus, creamy, smooth, and blended with island honey came in a close second. Les and I got one of each most nights and shared.
THE VIEW FROM THE CAFE DINING DECK. DINNER HERE IS COZY, DELICIOUS AND FILLED WITH THE SOUNDS OF COQUÍ. IMAGE: ©ROBERTA KRAVETTE
There is usually a choice of three main courses. We tried Fyah’s terrific lentil burger, his mushroom pasta, and his cauliflower with breadfruit – all delicious. The vegan chili was good but could have used a touch more “heat,” then again, mine tends to blow a hole in the pot as its cooking.
Your treehouse rate does not include dinner, but at $30.00 a person, it is a delicious bargain. Don’t forget to tip. Tell Fyah or Manny in advance when you plan to have dinner with them. Yuquiyú is a meat, fish, and dairy-free property, but even if you have not gone without a daily cheeseburger in 20 years, you will not miss them. Fyah makes everything from scratch, mostly with ingredients from the garden. We dined there all five nights.
DINNER AT YUQUIYú BEGINS WITH A REFRESHING SLUSHY, MY FAVORITE IS THE LIME/MINT. I AM STILL DREAMING ABOUT THEM. IMAGE: ©ROBERTA KRAVETTE
Your Treehouse is Breakfast Ready When you Arrive
Homemade granola, nuts, and rich Puerto Rican-grown coffee in jars are lined-up on the countertop. A French press stands at the ready next to a bowl of fresh fruit. The little refrigerator is stocked with lemonade, coconut milk, and delicious plant-based yogurt. On our way to the property, we stopped at a local grocery to pick up some bread and hummus and other snacks for lunch.
THE HANDS OF THE ARTIST. CHEF FYAH LETS HIS FOOD TO SPEAK FOR ITSELF, AND IT DOES. SIMPLE, FRESH FROM THE GARDEN, AND DELICIOUS. IMAGE: ©ROBERTA KRAVETTE
Wine and Moonlight Among the Coquí
Also on the counter when you arrive are two long-stemmed wine glasses. Yuquiyú does not offer wine or other alcohol. Les and I stocked up at the grocery. Every evening, after dinner, we adjourned to our balcony cantilevered over the forest-garden. We lit a candle and sipped our wine, listening to coquís. Some nights it rained, adding a soothing hum to the symphony as infinite droplets met infinite leaves. If there is a paradise, this is it. But this is a paradise reborn.
Cutting by Cutting, A Dream Becomes Reality
Yuquiyú Farm and Garden was the life-long dream of my friend, Martin Haggland. He bought barren, lifeless acres on a hillside, and over the next decade, he, together with Fyah, gave new life to this land. Fyah is now the master of the garden. He knows the history of every plant. Most of his new growth begins with cuttings from the original plants that Fyah nurtures in pots behind the café. When they are ready, he plants them in carefully selected spots. The property looks “wild,” but every plant, tree, flower, and blade of grass was explicitly set in its location and is lovingly tended.
AFTER A SPRING RAIN WE WATCHED THIS PUERTO RICAN LIZARD CUCKOO PATIENTLY DRY HER WINGS IN THE SUN, PREENING AND TURING UNTIL EVERY TINY FEATHER WAS DRY AND PERFECT. IMAGE: ©ROBERTA KRAVETTE
Relax, Slow Down and Enjoy Yuquiyú
There are things to do outside this property, but we suggest that you slow-down. Spend some or all of your days right here. From your balcony watch as clouds make shadows on the surrounding mountains. Look for flirty little bannaquits or Puerto Rican orioles or warblers among the flowers. Watch an endemic Puerto Rican Lizard Cuckoo dry her wings after a rain. Birdwatching is wonderful here.
THE GARDEN IS LOVINGLY TENDED BY A TEAM OF LOCAL PEOPLE WHO, TOGETHER WITH VISIONARY MARTIN HAGGLAND, NURTURED THIS LUSH PARADISE BACK FROM A BAREN WASTELAND. IMAGE: ©ROBERTA KRAVETTE
Or Sit By the River.
Bring a book or better, a pen and notebook, the old-school kind made of paper. There is a lovely, raised area with chairs to relax and watch the river. Or make your way rock-to-rock to one of the big boulders in the river and sit with it rushing all around you, feet dipped in the cold water. It is delightful.
Just a warning note: When it rains high on the mountain, the river turns very quickly from gentle but fast into a roaring, foaming torrent. Be aware. If you notice that it is raining on the mountain, get out of the river, even if it is not raining where you are. Flash floods are a fact.
If you find yourself with an itch to explore outside Yuquiyú, this is what we recommend:
Our Favorite Things To Do in Northeastern Puerto Rico
El Yunque National Forest.
DON’T MISS THE FASCINATION TALK BY EL YUNQUE FOREST RANGERS, TWICE A DAY AT THE TOP OF YOKAHU TOWER. IMAGE: ©ROBERTA KRAVETTE
First on our favorites list is El Yunque National Forest, about a 30-minute drive from Yuquiu´ Farm and Garden. This is the US National Forest system’s only tropical rainforest. At only 29,000 acres, it is also the smallest in size but also the most biologically diverse.
El Yunque was hit hard by Hurricane Maria in September 2017 and is still not fully recovered. The island’s indigenous people, wiped out centuries ago, believed this sacred mountain protected them from the giant storms that came from the sea. As with most myths, there is an element of truth in the story. Hurricanes traditionally stalled and died against the mountain peaks. That is until Maria tore through in September 2017. This may be a new pattern that is yet another fallout of a changing climate.
WATCHING THE RAIN APPROACH FROM THE YOKAHU TOWER, EL YUNQUE NATIONAL FOREST, PUERTO RICO. THIS IS A TROPICAL RAIN FOREST. BRING A RAIN SLICKER AND ENJOY EVERY MINUTE. IMAGE: ©ROBERTA KRAVETTE
Many of El Yunque National Forest’s miles of hiking paths are, unfortunately, still closed. The good news is that, although lack of funding is prolonging recovery, the trails are being made safer and more accessible.
At El Yunque National Forest, Don’t Miss:
Yokahu Tower. Twice a day, a park ranger gives a short lecture from the top of the tower. He talks about the area and tower’s history, explains how the hurricane affected the forest’s biodiversity, and answers questions. If you are interested, he may also tell you about the ancient mythology of El Yunque. For me, that was the best part.
La Coca Falls: This is a fun photo opp, and one that even Les, who is photo-adverse, could not pass up. It was also the only falls open when we were there. Mina Falls, and its swimming hole, is still closed, but don’t worry. There is plenty of opportunities to get wet and cool off at La Coca!
Look for Birds: Puerto Rico has 17 (plus one that is still being debated) endemic species and 330+ species that are migrants, introductions, or accidentals. Ask for Ranger Victor, he is El Yunque’s birding expert as well as being well versed on every other birding corner of the island. We found him sitting by the entrance gate. You cannot miss that fabulous smile. Say “hello” to him for us!
BEFORE YOU LOOK FOR THE BIRDS, LOOK FOR RANGER VICTOR AT EL YUNQUE NATIONAL FOREST. HE WILL ANSWER YOUR QUESTIONS AND SHARE THE SECRETS OF THE PARK. IMAGE: ©ROBERTA KRAVETTE
Take a Hike: The open trails are well worth a hike, even if you don’t go to the end. TIP: Wear appropriate footwear and bring rain gear. You are in a rainforest. It rains. A lot. The paths get slippery. Even soft, warm drizzle gets old when you are wet all day. A lightweight rain poncho will be very welcome!
EL YUNQUE NATIONAL FOREST TEMPORARY VISITOR CENTER, THE PORTALITO HUB ON CALLE PRINCIPAL IN PALMER, A STONE’S THROW FROM THE FOREST ENTRANCE. WE LOVED THE INTERPRETIVE INFORMATION AND CRAFT SHOP. THERE ARE A FEW GOOD COFFEE AND LUNCH CAFES RIGHT ACROSS THE STREET. IMAGE. ©R. KRAVETTE
El Yunque is famous as one of the last strongholds of the endemic Puerto Rican parrot, but that was before Maria. The storm killed many, and flattened their hiding places, making them easy prey for hawks. The forest service rescued and are rehabilitating what parrots they could find. We were there a week after a small release, and the re-wilded parrots were doing well. But you will not be able to visit the rehab facility.
Spend the Day at Old San Juan
WE SPENT THE AFTERNOON AT THE EL MORRO FORT IN OLD SAN JAUN, WANDERING, EXPLORING AND ENJOYING THE VIEW. IMAGE: ©ROBERTA KRAVETTE
I especially wanted to visit Old San Juan. Living history is a “don’t miss” for me. Old San Juan was worth the visit, and one full day is perfect. Our day began at the Plaza of the Heritage of the Americas. We wandered through the beautiful Jardin de La Princessa with its wonderful statuary, and along the old wall stopping to watch the lizards and iguanas and the feral cats trying to catch them.
From the Park, follow the path to El Morro Fort. TIP: The Fort has clean restrooms but no snack shop. After hours of exploring in the tropical sun, we took a much-needed break in a little café, sampled a couple of cold Puerto Rican beers, and some great empanadas in a setting perfect for people watching.
The old town itself is a mix of winding cobblestone streets with little shops, cafes, and bars interspersed with hollowed-out abandoned buildings. Puerto Rico has never received the help it needs to rebuild after Maria. The sad evidence of that neglect is in every corner of the island, Old San Juan included. But we enjoyed every second of our day, exploring, shopping, and eating, of course, and meeting lots of wonderful people. It was a gorgeous day!
At only a 4-hour flight from New York, Puerto Rico is a great escape, and Yuquiyú Farm and Garden is a soul-soothing delight. Don’t be surprised if long after you have left Yuquiyú, the coquí song, the soft perfume, the sound of the river, and the moon’s glow over the garden gently beckons you to return.
Full Disclosure: On this, our first visit, Les and I were invited guests to Yuquiyú Farm and Garden. But we will be back again, and soon. We love it.
Would you like to experience the rainforest from a treehouse? Contact US for Yuquiyú
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Would you like to experience the rainforest from a treehouse?
Contact Us for Yuquiyú